Sunday, April 15, 2007

Morocco!!

April 13, 2007

First off, HAPPY 18TH BIRTHDAY BUB!!!

This is the Morocco blog update, and it will be long. Sorry, deal with it. :)

I went to Morocco for a week with a program called Discover Sevilla (check ‘em out online, it’s a really cool company) who takes mostly American students from Spain to some really cool places in the area, such as Morocco and Portugal. It was started 3 years ago by two 25 year old guys and now they’ve grown into a really, really impressive company. I was kind of skeptical on going on an organized trip with a big group of people, but now I realize that was the very best possible way for me to see Morocco in a week.

The first day we met the group at 4:45, drove to the southern-most tip of Spain, and took the ferry to Tangier. We then drove down to the capital of Morocco, Rabat. Along the way we stopped at some really cool beach towns and had lunch (the beginning of intestinal problems for everyone) and finally got to Rabat in the afternoon. We explored the oldest part of Rabat right on the coast now a little village with blue painted walls supposedly to keep mosquitoes away.


We visited some national monument-type buildings, and I really wish I knew something about Morocco to understand the significance of these famous landmarks. One of the buildings had the tombs of all Moroccan kings for hundreds of years, and it’s also a pilgrimage sight. We were there right about sunset, at around 6:00 loudspeakers around the city call out a prayer call, indicating time to pray for Muslims. So we’re in this pilgrimage site looking like idiots when everyone around us drops to their knees, faces Mecca, and begins to pray. It was really moving and awesome to see, but I felt like I was really invading something sacred, especially at a holy site. I later realized that not everyone follows the strict rules of prayer, but it just so happened that our first experience with prayer was at a Mosque, where everyone would be praying. Pretty interesting first cultural experience in an Islamic country, for sure.

Picture of the Morocco group, some of my friends from Barcelona that I traveled with… missing a few girls but this is the majority of us:

Our next stop was Fez, the religious and cultural capital of Morocco. Fez is, for the most part, a sprawling city just like you would expect in a developing country. The coolest part of the city is the medina, the city center surrounded by the ancient wall. Every big city has a medina, usually the market place with the oldest history. We had a Moroccan guide take us through the Medina, and the first thing he said to us was that tourists die every year getting run over by donkeys. Awesome. So we got to the medina, and it was pretty incredible. Fez has one of the biggest medinas rivaled only by Marrakech, which meant it had 9,800+ “streets” which were most like crowded walkways of vendors and stores. Unfortunately no pictures I took could capture how freaking awesome it was, mainly because in the coolest parts I didn’t really feel comfortable taking out my camera. I saw some pretty crazy things in there and the meat section made me eat vegetarian for the rest of the week. I’m beginning to think that if I can’t handle dead pig heads and seeing chickens get decapitated, I shouldn’t be eating meat. Anyway, we spent the full day roaming through rug stores, a pharmacy, a great restaurant, a gorgeous Mosque (we weren’t allowed in any religious building, but it was still beautiful from the outside), and many other cool places I wish could be explained in words. That night we saw a belly dancing and local music show, which was pretty bizarre but interesting.

Here’s a picture of the medina, although this pic doesn’t quite do it justice:


More or less the Rabat “skyline” within the walled medina, proof that Morocco definatley is a developing country.

Here’s the donkey that did not run me over:
Ok, next. On the third day we drove across a lot of Morocco, through some really beautiful towns, and over the Atlas mountains. We spent a lot of time in the bus, but it didn’t matter at all because the scenery was so spectacular. We went from coastal towns, to farmland, to hills, to massive snowy mountains, and ended the day in the Sahara desert. We parked the bus at a hotel in the desert, but then found out that we weren’t staying at this one, we had to 4-wheel through the desert to get to the place we were staying. Turns out there is a legitimate road from the first hotel to ours, but Moroccans believe in short cuts, aka driving over 50mph through the desert at night with only dim lights to lead the way, no signs, no idea how they knew where they were going, no idea how they didn’t hit a bush or animal or person. After a full hour of flying through the desert with a man who didn’t speak English or Spanish (there were 6 students in the car) he somehow was able to tell us we were lost, and maybe in Algeria (actually that part I heard a few days later). Finally we got to our hotel about an hour after everyone else, thanks to the fact that our guide somehow had cell phone service. Our hotel was in the middle of the Sahara surrounded by sand dunes in every direction. It was amazing.

More pics, first of the Atlas Mountains:

Excited to be in the desert hotel! (This might be a good time to point out to whoever is unaware that jumping pictures are a tradition with CCO folks and not some random obsession I have, it’s legit! I swear! And it takes more talent than normal pictures.)


So I have to backtrack a bit. On our way over the Atlas Mountains we made a rest stop at a place where there’s a lot of monkeys. At first I couldn’t figure out why there were so many monkeys in that particular location, and then I realized it was because people fed them. Very sad, but that doesn’t mean I wasn’t excited to see some African monkeys!!

Here’s a picture of the baby monkey eating food some idiot gave him. People are ignorant about wildlife in every part of the world, it turns out. And no, it wasn’t the American college students feeding them:

Ok so back to the Sahara Desert. This was by far the highlight of my trip. The cities and towns were also very cool, but something about camping in the Sahara I know I won’t forget for the rest of my life. The first night in the desert hotel (I wish I could give a name or location, but “middle of nowhere” will have to suffice) we wandered into the desert after dark and explored the dunes. At first we thought we were more or less alone, aside from a few other groups of students exploring. Then we started running into a lot of locals, randomly walking through the desert. It was at first kind of creepy to turn the corner and see a lone man walking towards you in the middle of nowhere, in the dark, but we felt safe the entire time and everyone was really friendly and either wanted to chat or at least greeted us in Arabic and left us alone. We met one guy (I won’t try to remember his name, I’ll butcher it) who worked at our hotel and also took college classes in Fez. He spoke pretty good English, even better Spanish, and also spoke French, Arabic, local dialect, etc. We met a few more people wandering throughout the desert at night, and it turns out they use the night and the full moon to travel from work to home or vice versa, because when it’s daylight it’s just to damn hot to be walking through the desert.

Me on the dunes outside our hotel, at daylight, no doubt jumping for joy:


Most the people we met in Southern Morocco were Berber, the native tribe of people more of less untouched by the spread of Islam. They’re an indigenous group, and one of the only ones that hasn’t been completely absorbed by the greater Muslim culture in Northern Africa. One guy explained to me that they don’t really marry outside the Berber tribe, so the blood is more or less purely of their native group and not really diluted at all... for centuries and centuries they’ve kept to themselves. They speak Arabic in college (they are WELL educated, venture out of the desert for a college education, at least all that I met, which were all about my age) but maintain a pretty unique culture. Oh yea, and they are really good looking. Especially for deprived college girls.

Here’s a picture of my friend Maggie with a guy we met while in the desert, he spoke perfect English and was really friendly; he definitely wanted us to enjoy his home and wanted to teach us all about their culture.


Ok this entry is getting really long… stay with me, I’m almost done, I swear. So we woke up, day 4, and were able to get sufficiently sun burnt at the hotel pool. After lunch we packed up enough clothes for a night in the desert, and began our trek on camels. It’s of course an experience I’ll never forget, but camels are mean, painful, and slow. Four hours on a camel made me think horses were super cool, and I don’t really enjoy riding horses either. We rode camels through the Sahara to a “desert oasis”, aka the only patch of trees we saw amongst the dunes for miles. Within the trees there was a few big campsites set up for various groups (tourists, or local travelers) to have a place to rest on their journey across the desert. We made it to the oasis in the late afternoon, and then climbed a huge dune to see a spectacular sunset. We met a group of Berber men (never met or saw a Berber woman) who cooked us a great dinner. The rest of the night the group drank bad Moroccan wine and danced to drums in front of the campfire. We woke up in the morning and had to get back on the camels back to the hotel, which was the low point of the trip but only because the campout was so great.

Picture, my camel, resembling a prehistoric dinosaur and clearly an idiot:


Picture of me, totally covered (it was hot, but I didn’t want to get burned) on my camel through the desert.

The view form our campsite. The desert goes on forever there.

THE best part of the trip, climbing the dune to watch the most amazing sunset ever (out in the distance it’s a lake, it’s mirage). You can see people out on the right spread farther along the dunes:

Our campsite, the lone trees in the Sahara Desert. In the background you can see the first section of the dune we climbed.


After getting back to the hotel on the 5th night we spent a good part of the rest of the day traveling back to Fez. We spent an exhausted night in Fez, and traveled back across the Straight of Gibraltar to Sevilla, getting in about 1:00 am. One good (but rainy) stop on the way back to Sevilla was the little beach town of Asilah (spelling?) that I wish I could have spent some more time at.

Obviously pictures explain more than words alone, and I wish I could post some more spectacular pictures on here. So that was Morocco, you get a prize if you read to the end of this entry!!

I’ll be home in less than two weeks! Yippee!!!

Love and miss you all,
Laura

Thursday, April 12, 2007

spring break, part 1

April 10, 2007

WOW.

I have no idea where to start. How about this: I just got back from a whirlwind spring break (here it’s called Semana Santa = Holy Week, because it always falls on Easter). I had so many incredible experiences in such a short period of time, and it still hasn’t sunk in that I was able to see so much cool stuff. Our trip was 12 days long and we covered a huge chunk of southern Spain, as well as a week in Morocco and a little tiny bit of Algeria on accident.

I started out by flying down to Sevilla (Seville, in English, weird) for a few days. Kate and I flew down on Thursday and four other girls in our group met us down there the following day. Sevilla is the main hub for Semana Santa celebrations so we wanted to be part of the hype. Spanish Catholics take Easter and all events surrounding it to a totally new level. I have never seen such extreme religious passion that encompasses an entire population. There were constant processions (literally 24 hours a day) for the full 10 days of Semana Santa, and most of the downtown streets were closed for the full time period. The city basically shuts down during the processions. No taxis, public transportation, etc. Luckily downtown Sevilla is pretty condensed compared to what I’m used to (you could never get around Barcelona by walking alone) so we didn’t have any problems. And all tourist stuff, bars, and restaurants were open so everything worked out well. Semana Santa processions are creepy and eerie and not at all a jovial celebration. They also seem pretty politically incorrect, because the traditional dress of the week closely resembles the KKK. These tunics are what they used to wear when prosecuting Jews throughout Spain, and they still wear them to celebrate Easter. Pretty creepy, if you ask me. The whole thing was really bizarre. If these guys look this creepy during the day, imagine what they look like in the streets at 3:00 in the morning holding a life-size statue of Jesus on the cross and chanting solemnly in Latin. (see pic)




Creepy by day...




Much more intense at night...


The Cathedral in Sevilla is the third largest in the world (following St. Paul’s and the Vatican) and proudly showcases Christopher Columbus’ remains (all of Spain LOVES Columbus, kind of in a weird obsessive way that I can’t really understand). I don’t mean to sound culturally inept, but I am sick of cathedrals. They are all impressive, yes, but they all look the same and start to blend together. So we went to the Cathedral, walked to the bell tower to get a good view, and got bored pretty quickly and left. Next we went to the Alcazaba, the Arabic Sultan palace from the 12th century. It was way cooler than I was expecting it to be. Really interesting architecture and details, and an enormous garden that we wandered in for hours. It was pretty warm that day so we enjoyed getting some sun.





Cool Cathedral, this pic only shows a small portion of it, but it's HUGE.





Enjoying the impressive Alcazar:







Goofy jumping picture in the gardens of the Alcazar. It was my first day of spring break and I was pretty excited...


Aside form the Cathedral and the Alcazar, we spent our time in Sevilla watching the processions and exploring the city. It’s a really vibrant city and people in Southern Spain are much more friendly and hospitable (southern hospitality is universal?) than in Barcelona. The entire city smells like flowers and the streets are lined with orange trees. (Guess what Mom, orange juice was my staple drink over spring break, I’m growing up!) My one complaint about Sevilla is that anything ordered in a restaurant is covered with a thick layer of mayonnaise. Random. Oh yea, our hostel was extremely impressive. It had a really nice common room with TV/internet, a really nice kitchen with free breakfast, and a rooftop deck with couches for taking naps in the sun.




Downtown Sevilla at sunset:

Let’s see… after a few days in Sevilla we left for Morocco, but I think Africa deserves its own blog post. I’ll skip to our post-Morocco stop in Granada.

Well after returning to Spain from Morocco we spent one last night in Sevilla (Good Friday, insane amounts of processions) before taking a train to Granada. I admit I knew nothing about Granada aside from the Alhambra, and I was really impressed. Granada is the Spanish version of what I would imagine Boulder to be like in the 70s with a Muslim influence. Translation: it is hippy and bohemian and overall really cool and unique. Kate and I got to Granada a day before anyone else (for some reason Kate and I always end up traveling together: see Pyrenees trip) and we had a night to explore a bit and catch up on sleep.

On Saturday (now we’re up to April 7th, I think) we woke up at 6:00 am to get in line for tickets to the Alhambra. For those of you unfamiliar with the Alhambra, it is an immense Arabic/Moorish palace and gardens, and an old military fortress. It’s probably the most famous thing in Spain next to the Prado. Actually maybe more famous, I’m not sure. Anyway, you’re supposed to reserve tickets to the Alhambra online up to a year in advance. Obviously unorganized college kids didn’t plan nearly that far in advance, so we were stuck standing in line for almost four hours in the freezing cold (no one told us Granada was in the mountains). Anyway, standing in line was worth it and it was really fascinating. The whole time up there, standing in line, waiting for our assigned time, took about 10 hours.

Part of the Alhambra overlooking the Arabic neighborhood of Granada:




Here's a picture of Kate and I in the Royal Palace at the Alhambra:

After the Alhambra we met up with friends Katie and Maggie who had arrived that day, and did dinner and bars until I passed out exhausted in the hostel.

Oh, the hostel. More like a brothel. Overcrowded, sketchy, people sleeping on mattresses in the ceiling beams, 1 shared coed bathroom for over 50 people, a room specially designated for pot smoking, and a drunk owner. We were in a six-bed female dorm that ended up being me, Kate, an old woman, two men, and a British girl. All sharing a room. It wasn’t even a hotel setup; it was basically rooms of an old house filled with bunk beds. I feel like I could have really enjoyed myself and appreciated the strange vibe of this place if it hadn’t been that I was paying way too much money to stay there. Well, clearly I survived to write about it unscathed, so I’ll stop complaining. In conclusion, I’m more uptight than I thought. Or maybe it’s that I wasn’t on drugs to enjoy the situation.

Luckily Granada is way too cool to spend time in the hostel, when you could be exploring. The next day was Easter, and it was pretty unconventional. We started with an Easter brunch complete with 2 bottles of champagne. We then wanted to explore the Arabic neighborhood where our hostel was. We found a road that ran alongside the river towards the mountains), and all the walls and bridges and benches were covered with people celebrating Easter in a very non-religious way. It had more of a 4th of July vibe than anything else. It was really warm outside and people were playing music and drinking a lot and having picnics. So we joined in. We wandered up and down the river front to different cafes and groups of people listening to street music and dancing and drinking. The whole thing was very bohemian and kind of surreal, and really fun. In Granada, when you order a drink you get a plate of free food, so we ended up stuffed.

Pic: the street along the river in Granada on Easter:

Later in the afternoon we wandered into the gypsy village, which is up in the hills where all the houses are caves built into the hillside. Gypsies are alive and well in southern Spain, trying to offer you spring of herbs and distracting you by reading your palm while they rob you. At least these are the types of gypsies that tourists run into. There’s also an interesting culture behind the gypsies, and we were able to see a really cool area of caves where they live and rarely go down into town. Gypsies aren’t allowed to live in the main part of Granada, and the Muslims have to live in their own neighborhood too. I’ve discovered that Europe has a lot of these ancient stereotypes and prejudices against various minorities, so old and traditional that they really don’t have any rhyme of reason. It’s probably likely that gypsies and Muslims could live in the city center if they really wanted to, but their ancestors have lived in these designated neighborhoods for generations and it’s just a cultural norm at this point. Culture and society is so interesting in Europe, especially in a place like Granada where there’s such a mix of cultures. Society doesn’t have such a historical background in the States, so it’s a really different dynamic. I’ve experienced this in other parts of Europe, too. Weird prejudices that have no logical. Anyway, I’ll get off my rant and conclude by saying that Granada is really interesting and unique and diverse.


Easter in gypsy town.

Let’s see… Easter ended with the traditional (sarcasm) Easter dinner of falafel and then some bars with some American students that someone knew somehow.

Monday was a 14 hour bus ride back to Barcelona, and I choose to forget that day ever existed because it was more or less the most boring day of my life. Highlight: saw Alicante and Valencia from the highway. Reminded me of my Spanish campers from last summer that I so dearly loved (more sarcasm).

So now I’m back in Barcelona for the last few weeks of school. I will write about Morocco tomorrow, but I don’t know how I’ll be able to sum up that trip.

See most of you SOON! Can’t wait.
Love,
Laura